formentera, spain

Feb 2008

The next day, eager to escape this sad-looking place, i took a bus back to the port to go to Formentera first thing in the morning. I boarded the ferry. The sea was rough, water splashing all over the deck. It even rained. I was the only person up on the open board. They must have thought i was crazy. But i loved it. It was coldly refreshing. Most people who stayed inside looked rather sick when they got out.

Started walking along the beach. No one was in sight. There was beauty in that desertedness. The sand was a mix of green and pink and white colors.


Then i reached this narrow strand of sand, which was at least 2 kms long. And 50 meters wide at most. I was literally walking in the middle of the ocean.


I turned back and continued down south. Still the only one on the beach for a while, but then started seeing some car tracks on the sand, and soon a couple of people. I felt lonely but stayed strong and continued on, didn’t want to make it back to town. I passed a row of houseboats on the beach and decided i could stay there for the night.

Bad idea.

There was nothing romantic about it, but absolute misery. Night fell around 7:30 and of course i couldn’t fall asleep that early. So there i was, lying on the cold wood in darkness. But the worst part was the wind. I should have known that it would be blowing hard. And it was still Feburary; it was chilly at night even without a single breeze. I put on more clothes, and finally dragged out a shed, shielded it around me against the wind and managed to sleep.

When i woke up the next morning, the tampon inside me had been there for too long and i had to change it. I was squatting on the ground, taking the old one out and putting another in, trying to wash my hands with the sandy sea water. One of the most disgusting things i’ve ever done in life.

I started arranging my things to walk back to town when i saw this guy coming in a car and disappear into one of the boathouses. I decided to wait to ask for a ride. I was exhausted and unhappy and didn’t want to walk. He didn’t speak much English, and looked puzzled seeing me there, but he let me climb into his car. I was dropped off somewhere in town, and asked for another the ride to the port. All i was thinking was: i wanted to get the hell out of here. I was so miserable for the whole night i couldn’t bear staying here for another moment.